Category Archives for Lash Techniques

I Want More Drama. What Do I need to Tell my Artist to Do & Use?

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If a client is wearing a 0.15 classic lash, typically Sylvia would recommend a thicker lash (0.20) or a curlier lash (CC or D curl, or L for extreme drama) or both.  After that, if they are still wanting more drama, Sylvia recommends trying a flat lash in the 0.15 or 0.20.  And lastly, if their natural lashes can support the extra weight of 4D-6D volume (this type of lash technique looks more like a strip lash and requires no less than 2-week fills and is much more expensive to maintain).

I Want Fuller, Thicker Lashes. What Do I Need to Tell My Artist to Do & Use?

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First, your lash artist should be certain that your natural lashes can support your request if you have very short, sparse lashes that are very thin, Sylvia would recommend that you do not walk away with the thickest, longest lashes available.  Instead, your lash artist should recommend a design that will not cause harm to your natural lashes.  To add some fullness without weighing down your natural lashes, your lash artist can use the tape back method to add in some very short lashes (6 to 8mm depending on the longest lash length you selected) to the 2nd and 3rd rows.  You could also have your artist apply Volume 2D if your lashes are very thin or 3D to 6D extensions if your natural lashes can support them.  2D to 6D lashes will be more expensive than classic one-on-one eyelash extensions because of the time involved and because more product is used.  You could also have your lash artist use Ellipse or X-wrap (flat) eyelash extensions to create the illusion of voluminous lashes.

I Want Natural Looking Eyelash Extensions. What Do I Need to Tell My Lash Artist to Do & Use?

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When someone says they want natural looking extensions, Sylvia’s first recommendation is a softer J curl and no longer than 10mm to 12mm and a lash no thicker than 0.15mm.  It is recommended for a natural look to go only 2mm beyond the natural lash length and because most people’s natural lashes are about 8mm to 10mm in length, going 2mm past that would be natural but enhanced.  Most people’s lashes are much less than 0.10 in thickness, so going with 0.15mm is enough to be noticeable.  Also going with a baby doll or natural style works for most eye shapes.  A consultation prior to lashing is pertinent. You need to discuss how long you want them and how noticeable you want them to be.  “Natural” can mean something different to everyone.

Live with Stacey Bourn

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Make-up artist extraordinaire, Stacey Bourne, talks about all things Eyelashes and shows some love for our book.

I Had a Reaction to Eyelash Extensions in the Past, Can I Still Get Eyelash Extensions?

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First, you need to be specific as to where the reaction was.  Was it all over your eye?  Was it both eyes?  What kind of reaction was it? Was there both edema and erythema present?  You must first determine if the reaction was caused by the adhesive or if it was caused by the eye pads or cleanser used during your procedure.  You could try a patch test, have the artist apply 10 lashes to one or both eyes and see if you react. Some clients can tolerate Xtreme Lashes Flex Fusion adhesive, which is formulated specifically for sensitive and reactive eyes with no reaction.  Some clients will still have a reaction to Flex Fusion and the only way to find out is by doing a patch test.

You can also try a few of these suggestions:

Prior to your appointment take an antihistamine, continue that for 3 days after your application.  You can also use allergy eye drops to alleviate itching, but be careful when applying the drops so that they do not get on the eyelash extensions.  Doing so can cause the extensions to fall off prematurely.

For a day or two before and a few days after your appointment use Claritin and Pepcid AC.  Claratin blocks histamine receptor site H1 and Pepcid AC block receptor H2.  See if that makes a difference for you in how your eyes react.  This information is in no way meant to take the place of advice or recommendation from your physician.

Ask your lash artist to avoid using eye makeup remover, cleanser, primer or anything other than eyewash around your eye area and lashes.  You may consider trying our own eye makeup remover intended to be used with most extension adhesives, it is oil-free, gentle, free from harsh preservatives, and instead contains a natural preservative).

 We recommend using mineral powder eyeshadow or a mineral powder that matches your skin tone on your eyelids to absorb excess oil.  Also, some lash companies offer a protective coating that also helps to prolong lash life, the coating is intended to fill in any little crevices in the adhesive, seals the bond between the adhesive, the extension and your natural lash and keeps the adhesive from breaking down.

Your lash artist should go through care and maintenance with you at the end of your service.  Do not be afraid to cleanse your lashes, after your initial 48-hour cure period.  It is extremely important to keep the eye area free of debris, excess oils and makeup while wearing extensions.

Can eyelash extensions be added to lower/bottom lashes?

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Yes, having them applied on the lower lashes is not only beautiful and complimentary, they complete your look.  If your lash artist is gifted your extensions may appear much more realistic since your lower lashes will also be a bit longer and fuller.   Having extensions on the upper and lower lashes at the same time adds symmetry, and no one will be the wiser that your extensions are not really yours.   Lower lashes are an add-on service, the cost depends on the lash artist.  The design can be short, wispy, cat eye, symmetrical, staggered lengths, long and dramatic, or something more natural.  It just depends on the length and style of your natural lashes and the look that you want.  You never have to worry about raccoon eyes because there is no need for mascara on the bottom eyelashes.

 When Sylvia started adding extensions to the lower/bottom lashes, neither Sylvia or Mea were aware of anyone else doing it.  She had to create a technique to apply them effectively and in a timely manner that is comfortable for her clients.  We are still not aware of many lash artists, in our area, that are applying them to the bottom lashes even though they make such a difference to the overall look..  

Lower lashes typically start upwards from $35 for new lashes and fills, but it depends on the type of lashes, the time needed to apply them, and the number of lashes.  Bottom lashes take approximately 30 to 45 minutes and about 20 to 30 minutes for fills.