Eye Shapes & Our Eyelash Extension Recommendations for Them

Although we have recommendations listed below, in no way are artists limited to what they can do with extensions. Something that needs to be taken into consideration is personal preferences along with lifestyle, bone structure, eye shape and the length and density of one’s natural lashes.

Although we can give our clients any look they want, we will provide alternate recommendations when we believe what they are requesting could harm their natural lashes.  For example, if someone wants to have 15mm long super thick cat eyelashes, but their lashes are too thin to support a standard thickness (.15mm) and too short to support 15mm, we may suggest using a thinner lash (.10mm) on the outer corners or going shorter at the outer corners.  First, the client must decide, is it more important to them to have longer or thicker extensions, because the hard truth is sometimes you just cannot have both.

There are no hard and fast rules or definite styles, but our recommendations below compliment most of the eye shapes described.  The other things that need to be taken into consideration are how close set the eyes are, how wide or narrow the face is and if the face is long or short.  All these factors determine what the outcome will be.  So, although you may love your BFF’s lashes and want the same exact look, that may not be possible depending upon (1) your natural lashes thickness, length, density; (2) your face shape; (3) eye shape and how close set they are; (4) how much makeup you wear; (4) whether you wear eyeglasses/sunglasses or not; and (5) whether you cry a lot or have allergies and many other factors.

Most people do not have a symmetrical face. By adjusting the lengths of the extensions on each eye differently, one can achieve more symmetry for persons that have noticeably different sized eyes.  Sometimes it is not noticeable until you get extensions applied because there is so much more emphasis on the eyes.  It is good to know which eye is your smaller eye and position it towards a camera when having photos taken for more facial balance (Sylvia learned that trick from a photographer).

Almond Eyes

The cat eye, kitten, natural, squirrel or longer lashes in the center looks great.

Close-Set Eyes

This shape looks best with the longer extensions placed at the outer eye for a cat eye effect.

Protruding Eyes

Natural is better, a shorter 8-10mm, softer curl “J” will result in a more natural look.  The style (emphasis on center or outer) would depend on the how close set the eyes are, whether they have a heavy eyelid or not.

Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes look best with the longest lashes in the center to ¾ of the way on the outer (open eye and natural).  If you put the longest lashes in the outer corners the eyes will look heavy and appear tired.

Wide-Set Eyes

Wide-set eyes look great with baby doll effect. Too much length emphasized at outer would make the eyes appear even further apart.

 Hooded Eyes

Looks best with longer lashes in the center (open eye, baby doll, kim-k, feathered) and if they are close-set, then extend the length to the outer.

 Upturned Eyes

Length at the outer with softer J curl – kitten or cat-eye.

 Round Eyes

Typically look best with the longer extensions placed at the outer eye for a cat eye effect. Placing the longest in the center will make them appear to protrude.

Monolid Eyes

Cat eye with length J curl at the outer and curlier lash CC or D in the center will balance them.

Eyelash Extension Curls, Thickness & Lengths

The image shows the differences between the curls, thicknesses, and lengths, although they are not to scale, it will give you an idea of some of your choices.  The curl, as well as the length, will dramatically change the overall look of your eyes.  It is important to note that not all curls or thicknesses will have the same retention or longevity.  Please take that into consideration if longevity is more important to you than the length or thickness of the lash.  The curlier the lash or the thicker the lash, the less retention it offers because there is less of the natural lash for the base of the extension to attach to.

Eyelash Extensions Curls

J

Are the softest natural curl, can appear longer because it does not curl much but offers the best retention.

B

Are a soft curl, standard for a natural enhanced lash appearance with good retention.

C / CC

This appears to be the most popular curl, it is glamorous and opens the eye.  CC is between a C and a D for an added lift, and is considered super glamorous, and offers good retention, but not as good as compared with J or B.

D

One of the curlier curls, retention may not be as good as with J or B or C/CC, but adds drama and opens the eye more, making it great for heavy eyelids.

L / L+

Is just what it says “L” shaped extensions similar to using an eyelash curler a little too much, where the lashes are bent upwards.  It offers a super dramatic effect.  L+ is slightly curlier.

Eyelash Extension Thicknesses range from .03mm to .30mm

.03mm, .05mm and .07mm

Extremely thin and extremely lightweight and used mostly for Volume 2D-6D lashes, or to fill in gaps, and used on very thin/very fine natural lashes.

.10mm

This thickness can also be used for Volume 2D (depending on the natural lash thickness and length) or as Classic 1D on thinner very fine natural lashes.

.12mm

Used on thinner lashes (Classic 1D) or for a softer wispier look and feel.

.15mm

This is the average lash thickness, creates a natural thicker look (Classic 1D).

.20mm

This lash extension thickness creates a natural mascara look.

.25mm

Creates a more striking glamorous look, this lash may be too heavy for most people’s lashes.

.30mm

For healthy, strong, thick natural lashes. Creates an extreme look – again, may be too heavy for most people’s lashes.

Eyelash Extension Lengths

Most lashes come in lengths from 5mm-17mm.  The majority of clients want their longest extension length to be around 12mm or 13mm.  Of course, everyone wants the longest lashes, but it is important to keep in mind that the length of your natural lash, the density of your natural lash, your lifestyle and how you care for your extensions all play a major role in the safety of your natural lashes and longevity of the eyelash extensions.  It is recommended that you start with the least amount of length to get the best results as far and longevity for your extensions and to preserve the integrity your natural lashes.

Understanding Your Lash Growth Cycle

Each person typically has about 150 to 200 natural hair lashes per eye on the upper eyelids and between 75 to 100 on the lower eyelids with the average natural eyelash length being around 8-10 mm long (about 3/8 of an inch or less).  Your natural lashes go through a shedding process on a regular basis.  Although it is unsettling to wake up in the morning and notice an eyelash or two that has fallen out, your eyelashes are like every other hair on your body, replacing themselves as they perpetually move through a natural growth cycle.

This hair growth cycle is broken down into three phases:  Anagen, Catagen, and Telogen.

Typically, the whole cycle averages about 60 days.  When your natural lash falls out there is one waiting to take its place.  Consider the following if you feel you may be losing too many lashes.  Depending on your lash growth cycle, you can lose anywhere from 1 to 5 natural lashes per day.  Let us average the loss of natural lashes to 3 per day on one eye.  If you lose 3 lashes per day, you will lose 21 per week, 42 in 2 weeks and up to 63 lashes in a 3-week period on one eye alone.  Again, this is (more or less) lash loss based on your natural lash cycle.

Sometimes the higher your metabolism, the faster you will shed.  Drugs, alopecia, hormones, playing with, pulling or constantly touching your lashes and your general overall eating and health can all play a part in your shedding cycle as well.  So, try not to freak out when you see a lash extension or two or your cheek or your pillow when you wake in the morning.  Instead, understand that it is part of the natural growth process and seize the opportunity to make a wish with your fallen lash!

Anagen (Active Growth Phase)

The Anagen phase is where the hair is still attached to the dermal papilla/blood supply. In this phase, the lashes are in active growth and it lasts between 30-45 days.  About 35%-40% of the upper lashes and about 15% of the lower lashes are in the anagen phase at any one time.  Each lash will grow to a specific length and then stop.

Catagen (Transition) Phase

The second phase is the catagen (transitional phase) where the eyelash stops growing and the follicle shrinks (lasts about 2-3 weeks).   If a lash falls out or is plucked out during this phase the lash will not grow back immediately because the follicle needs to complete the catagen phase before it can move on to the next phase.

Telogen (Resting) Phase

The third phase is the telogen (which is the resting phase). This phase can last up to 90 days before the eyelashes fall out, and a new lash begins to grow.

We hate this topic, but we feel it is important to bring up because not everyone knows that there are tiny mites called Demodex that live in or near the hair follicles of your eyelashes.  They are also found on facial skin especially the forehead, cheeks, sides of the nose, eyelashes and external ear canals.  There are two species that live on almost every human: Demodex folliculorum and Demodex brevis, both are referred to as eyelash mites.  These Demodex are not something you get, you already have them on your face and lashes (at least 2 per eyelash).  They are believed to be there to help clean your lashes and follicles and remove dead skin cells and bacteria. An infestation of Demodex can cause blepharitis.  That is why it is vital that you take care of your eyelashes and eyelash extensions, cleanse your eyes daily and never sleep with your eye makeup on.  For more information regarding Demodex see:

1. http://www.bbc.com/earth/story/20150508-these-mites-live-on-your-face
2. https://cliradex.com/myths-and-facts-of-demodex-blepharitis/
3. http://optometrytimes.modernmedicine.com/optometrytimes/content/tags/blephex/different-approach-treating-demodex-blepharitis

This depends on the condition of your lashes, and your lash artist’s recommendations.  If your lash artist sees that the health of your lashes is being compromised, then you should take a break.  However, if you are following protocol and have a good lash artist, you should not have to.

Your lash artist should at least give you the option to purchase a cleanser and brush.  The aftercare kit should have everything you need to protect your investment.  It is crucial to your lashes to cleanse them daily, even if you do not wear eye makeup.  Cleansing and using a protective coating/sealant twice a week will make your extensions wear better, last longer and keep debris from breaking down the adhesive. More importantly, cleansing your eyelashes and eyelash extensions will keep your natural lash follicles from getting clogged with debris and keep them healthy.  Not cleansing makes your lashes finer, weaker and shorter and can lead to blepharitis.

Your aftercare kit should include: 

Cleanser/eye makeup remover.  You may consider trying our eye makeup remover intended to be used with most extension adhesives.  It is own oil-free, gentle, free from harsh preservatives, and instead contains a natural preservative.

Latex-free Sponges (do not use cotton balls, cotton pads or gauze)

Lint Free Applicators (do not use cotton-tipped swabs)

Protective Coating

Lash Brush

Eyeliner (optional), but you can use a liquid or cake liner that is specifically formulated to use with eyelash extensions.  You can also use eyeshadow smudged along the lash line.  Never use a waterproof liner.

Mascara (optional), we strongly advise against mascara because your lashes are already volumized, lengthened and curled, but if you choose to wear it, it must be water-based (not waterproof) and you may only apply it to the very tips of the lashes, do not stroke it through the entire lash.  Using mascara will compromise the longevity of your eyelash extensions.

Handheld fan to dry your lashes (optional)

Eyelash Eye Mask (optional), but a firm eye mask will help protect your lashes while you are sleeping.

Lash extensions should only be applied by a professional.  Because the lash industry is so poorly regulated you will need to do research to help you decide.  You most likely would not just walk in, sit down and have your hair cut or colored without first consulting with the hair stylist, so why would you do that with your lash stylist?  You also would not go to someone who was not licensed to do hair or someone who trained themselves to color or cut.  So again, why would you do that with your eyelash extensions?

When choosing a salon or lash artist, you might also do it in the same way that you select a hair salon or hair stylist or colorist.  You research the salon, check out their website, see photos of their work, get a consultation, make sure they are licensed and properly trained, find out how long they have been in the business and find out what products they use.  You might also go by word of mouth or get a referral from a friend or family member.  Look at before and after photos, read reviews on Yelp and Google and ask questions.

Again, you get what you pay for, so make sure you are not basing your decision solely on the price because it is inexpensive.  Never take chances when it comes to the work that is being done around your eyes.  Be certain that you have chosen someone who is certified, qualified, experienced and licensed in your state if you are in a state that requires it.  You can get an easy to follow checklist and contact info to find out if your lash person is qualified to do extensions from our book.  Get it NOW by taking our fun quiz here.

Lash artists are just that… artists. Just like hairstylists, some are good in the industry and others are, well, not so good.  Research their reputation, their style, and technique.  It takes time to get good at anything… practice makes perfect and lashes are no exception.  It takes a solid 2 years to become a skilled lash artist and even longer to master it. This profession requires extreme precision, an artistic eye, a steady hand, someone who is meticulous… this is not a business that a lash artist can build overnight.  It takes about a year or longer to build a lash business and have a client base that will allow the lash artist to at least break even.

• If they are not licensed and insured by the state … Red Flag.
• No professional training by a reputable eyelash extension company… Red Flag. Be sure to ask what education they have received. A skilled lash artist has been trained by a professional eyelash extension company and has probably paid upwards of $1,500 to $2,000 for their initial training class and in addition may have also paid a substantial amount of money for their advanced training, certification training and volume eyelash extensions training.  Someone who has paid that much for their eyelash extension training is going to be more dedicated to their career and take their profession more seriously.  They will also have been trained in safety and sanitation practices.  They may also regularly attend lash conferences, expos, and other courses to stay up-to-date with the latest trends and industry advancements. Going to someone who has not gone through professional training or going to someone who is inexperienced can have severe consequences.
• Someone who is not dedicated to this profession and only doing them here and there from home should be a Red Flag. You cannot guarantee that they are licensed or using safe and sanitary protocol and the state is probably not regulating anyone working from home.
• Are they advertising their services through Groupon or another discount company? If they are using Groupon that usually means no client base, no client base most likely means no experience or expertise… Red Flag.
• Ask them which company they get their eyelashes and adhesive supplies through. They should be getting their supplies from a reputable eyelash extension supply company. If not… Red Flag.
• Do they guarantee their work? If not… Red Flag.
• No photos of their work… Red Flag. Great lash artists should have plenty of photos of their work available for you to view along with their pricing on their website, Yelp, Google, Facebook or Instagram. A HUGE Red Flag is if the artist or technician is using stock photos instead of photos of their own work!  Also, check out their reviews on Yelp, Google, Facebook and look at their other social media accounts… Pinterest, LinkedIn, Twitter, etc. Hopefully, you will find more information and reviews there too describing the clients’ experiences.
• Ask for a recommendation, if the client says their eyes itch or the lashes fall out with more than one extension attached… Red Flag. There are times when lash work can initially look pretty, but after a day or two when the natural lash starts to grow out there can be pulling, tugging, itching, and wonky lashes. This is caused by the lashes not being applied individually to each lash, lashes being stuck to baby lashes, lashes that are too close or too far in placement from the base of the natural lash or if there is too much or too little adhesive used.
• If your eyelash extensions have blunt ends or you hear her cutting your eyelash extensions… Red Flag. The lash artist should NEVER cut your extensions… no exceptions. EVER.

Finally, cleanliness is a virtue.  Ask yourself these questions after visiting your lash artist.

• Does the work area and treatment room look clean and uncluttered?
• Is the work area free from food and beverages (water is fine)?
• How are the tools sanitized?
• Is there a disposable cover on the headrest?
• Are the disposable items disposed of after each use?
• Did the lash artist wash their hands in front of you prior to starting their service on you?
• In Washington State it is required for an esthetician to have a sink in their treatment room, does your lash artist have a sink in their treatment room and is it required by your state?

First, you need to be specific as to where the reaction was.  Was it all over your eye?  Was it both eyes?  What kind of reaction was it? Was there both edema and erythema present?  You must first determine if the reaction was caused by the adhesive or if it was caused by the eye pads or cleanser used during your procedure.  You could try a patch test, have the artist apply 10 lashes to one or both eyes and see if you react. Some clients can tolerate Xtreme Lashes Flex Fusion adhesive, which is formulated specifically for sensitive and reactive eyes with no reaction.  Some clients will still have a reaction to Flex Fusion and the only way to find out is by doing a patch test.

You can also try a few of these suggestions:

Prior to your appointment take an antihistamine, continue that for 3 days after your application.  You can also use allergy eye drops to alleviate itching, but be careful when applying the drops so that they do not get on the eyelash extensions.  Doing so can cause the extensions to fall off prematurely.

For a day or two before and a few days after your appointment use Claritin and Pepcid AC.  Claratin blocks histamine receptor site H1 and Pepcid AC block receptor H2.  See if that makes a difference for you in how your eyes react.  This information is in no way meant to take the place of advice or recommendation from your physician.

Ask your lash artist to avoid using eye makeup remover, cleanser, primer or anything other than eyewash around your eye area and lashes.  You may consider trying our own eye makeup remover intended to be used with most extension adhesives, it is oil-free, gentle, free from harsh preservatives, and instead contains a natural preservative).

 We recommend using mineral powder eyeshadow or a mineral powder that matches your skin tone on your eyelids to absorb excess oil.  Also, some lash companies offer a protective coating that also helps to prolong lash life, the coating is intended to fill in any little crevices in the adhesive, seals the bond between the adhesive, the extension and your natural lash and keeps the adhesive from breaking down.

Your lash artist should go through care and maintenance with you at the end of your service.  Do not be afraid to cleanse your lashes, after your initial 48-hour cure period.  It is extremely important to keep the eye area free of debris, excess oils and makeup while wearing extensions.

Yes.  Be sure to tell your lash artist at the time of your appointment that you wear glasses so that the extensions that are to be applied are not so long that they interfere with your glasses, typically anything longer than 11mm will probably touch the glasses.  Persons who wear contacts would be more comfortable taking the contacts out prior to their lash appointment.  Sometimes people who wear contacts use eye drops for dry eyes or to keep their eyes hydrated.  Keep in mind, that if you use eye drops, they will compromise the longevity of the eyelash extensions, especially following an application and before the 48-hour period needed for the adhesive to cure, which is why we recommend that you not wear contacts during the application.  If you must wear your contacts and you must apply the drops, do the following to try to not compromise your eyelash extensions:  form a pouch in the lower lid and place 1 or 2 drops in the pouch, roll your head back and forth rather than clenching your eye shut.  Clenching your eye shut will allow the eye drop to get all over your extensions, and cause them to fall off prematurely.