All posts by Mea Arsenault

I Want More Drama. What Do I need to Tell my Artist to Do & Use?

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If a client is wearing a 0.15 classic lash, typically Sylvia would recommend a thicker lash (0.20) or a curlier lash (CC or D curl, or L for extreme drama) or both.  After that, if they are still wanting more drama, Sylvia recommends trying a flat lash in the 0.15 or 0.20.  And lastly, if their natural lashes can support the extra weight of 4D-6D volume (this type of lash technique looks more like a strip lash and requires no less than 2-week fills and is much more expensive to maintain).

I Want Fuller, Thicker Lashes. What Do I Need to Tell My Artist to Do & Use?

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First, your lash artist should be certain that your natural lashes can support your request if you have very short, sparse lashes that are very thin, Sylvia would recommend that you do not walk away with the thickest, longest lashes available.  Instead, your lash artist should recommend a design that will not cause harm to your natural lashes.  To add some fullness without weighing down your natural lashes, your lash artist can use the tape back method to add in some very short lashes (6 to 8mm depending on the longest lash length you selected) to the 2nd and 3rd rows.  You could also have your artist apply Volume 2D if your lashes are very thin or 3D to 6D extensions if your natural lashes can support them.  2D to 6D lashes will be more expensive than classic one-on-one eyelash extensions because of the time involved and because more product is used.  You could also have your lash artist use Ellipse or X-wrap (flat) eyelash extensions to create the illusion of voluminous lashes.

I Want Natural Looking Eyelash Extensions. What Do I Need to Tell My Lash Artist to Do & Use?

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When someone says they want natural looking extensions, Sylvia’s first recommendation is a softer J curl and no longer than 10mm to 12mm and a lash no thicker than 0.15mm.  It is recommended for a natural look to go only 2mm beyond the natural lash length and because most people’s natural lashes are about 8mm to 10mm in length, going 2mm past that would be natural but enhanced.  Most people’s lashes are much less than 0.10 in thickness, so going with 0.15mm is enough to be noticeable.  Also going with a baby doll or natural style works for most eye shapes.  A consultation prior to lashing is pertinent. You need to discuss how long you want them and how noticeable you want them to be.  “Natural” can mean something different to everyone.

What is the Consumer Report Article on Eyelash Extensions All About?

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Some of you may have heard or read this report:

 www.consumerreports.org/cro/2013/05/eyelash-extensions-can-pose-health-risks/index.htm

This article starts out with formaldehyde being the culprit.  The first thing you need to know is that formaldehyde is an everyday product ingredient that is used in normal household items and we are surrounded by it daily.  It might surprise you to know that much of the shelving, furniture, wall finishes, carpet, cabinetry and flooring in your home most likely contain this chemical. Formaldehyde can also be found in glue, fiberboard, insulation, plywood, particleboard and timber paneling.  It is also in many personal cleansing and beauty products such as face and body lotions, shampoos, sunscreen, soap bars, cosmetics, body wash, toothpaste, baby wipes and bubble bath.  We are continuously being exposed to it.

Other names for formaldehyde are Methylaldehyde, Methanal, Oxymethylene 1,3-Dioxetane, Quaternium 15, Formic Aldehyde, Oxomethane, Formalin, Phenol-Formaldehyde Urea Methylene Oxide. You may find these listed in the ingredients in your everyday household cleaning products as well.

The person mentioned could be allergic to the cleanser that the lash artist used to cleanse her lashes, she could also be allergic to the tape or eye pad that is being used, she could also be allergic to the primer.  Sylvia has had several clients that were allergic to the cleanser but okay with the adhesive and they had an allergic reaction that was identical to someone who was allergic to the adhesive.  Anyone who has seasonal allergies can go through a more severe reaction because if they are not cleansing their eyelash extensions regularly, the allergens get trapped in the eyelash extensions and cause more irritation to their eyes than they would have had if they did not have eyelash extensions applied.

People can be allergic to anything and it can happen at any time, even if you have been exposed to it for years prior.

Regarding the loss of natural eyelash hair, again, if you are using lashes that are too long and heavy for your natural lashes, then you risk the loss of hair.  If you do not cleanse your lashes regularly, then you can damage the hair follicle and cause the hair to grow back weaker and thinner.  If you pick and play with your lashes and are constantly touching them, you will loosen the natural lash.  Continually doing this will damage the hair follicle.

If you are not careful who you choose to have do your lashes then that person can damage your lashes with their applications.  Sylvia has had to turn away clients that insisted that they want the longest thickest lashes, but after examination, she learned their lashes could not support them.  Individuals have walked in with lash extensions that were touching their eyebrows and insisted Sylvia fill them in the same way.  Sylvia will not perform this type of service, because first and foremost the health of her client’s lashes is more important to her, but if that look is desired she suggests using strip lashes as they can be taken off daily.  Sylvia definitely cannot recommend additions such as crystals or glitter to the eyelashes.  That again, would put too much pressure on your precious eyelashes and may also cause corneal abrasions or worse.  Sylvia wants you to keep your natural lashes and eyes healthy, doing so keeps her in business.  It is that simple.

Are There Permanent Eyelash Extensions?

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The eyelash extensions that are applied to your lashes are considered semi-permanent, some can last until your natural lash falls out, but they are not permanent.  If by permanent you mean eyelash implants, then yes, but that would be considered a last resort for those with weak, damaged lashes. The procedure is like hair transplant surgery, but for the eyelashes.  It involves harvesting living hair follicles and then implanting them into the eyelid. After a period of healing, they will grow just like natural lashes.  The pictures we have seen thus far of people who have had this procedure done look like spider legs, and the end of the lash looks blunt (not thin and wispy like regular lashes).  This procedure started in Asia and made its way west.  The cost of implants ranges from $2,000 to $5,000 in the United States.

I Have Determined That I Cannot Have Eyelash Extensions; What are My Options?

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Magnetic Lashes – Application and removal are simple even for a beginner, you just align the magnetic strip with your natural lash line base. They are reusable and come in sections for a customizable look.  The magnets can be noticeable, alignment may be difficult to achieve, look unnatural and cheap.  Moving them around after application of makeup can cause your makeup to smudge and smear.  Much more expensive than strip lashes, they are only temporary and should be cleaned and removed daily.

Strip Lashes – Synthetic lashes that can be natural, classic or dramatic depending on which style and lengths you choose.  The plastic fibers can be soft like mink lashes at a much lesser cost.  Strip lashes can be applied to the skin using a strip lash adhesive, such as Duo and an application tool, back end of a makeup brush or tweezers.  There is little damage to your natural lash although some lashes can get caught in the adhesive and pulled out when you remove them, so you need to be very careful when removing.  Strip lashes are only temporary and should be removed at the end of the day.  The adhesive should be removed from the band and cleaned after wearing.  Strip lashes should never have mascara applied to them and they cannot get wet.

Lash Lift Perm Treatments – Lifts lashes from the root, curls and creates the illusion of longer lashes, open the eyes and enhances your natural lashes.  These are great for people who are sensitive to eyelash extension adhesives.  This application must be performed by a qualified professional.  This works on long or short lashes.  Although people whose lashes point downward will love it at first, as the lashes start to grow, the new growth will still grow downward while leaving the curled ones intact, the result will be lashes going down and up and straight and curly.  Not so great for applying mascara on them during this in-between stage.  Most lash lift treatments can safely be re-done every 4-6 weeks.  You must make sure that you are using a qualified professional for this treatment.  Sylvia has done a few perm corrections on people who went to an unqualified lash stylist.

Semi-permanent Mascara – A formaldehyde free, hypoallergenic, lash coating that is similar looking to mascara.  Typically lasts 1 to 2 weeks.  It can be applied to both upper and lower lashes, is smudge proof and waterproof. Semi-permanent mascara can be used with lash lift and eyelash extensions although we do not recommend it with eyelash extensions.   Recommended use on clients who have medium length to long lashes. It is also recommended that after 3 or 4 weeks client must return for removal and have a fresh coating applied.

Volumizing Mascaras – Use a couple of different types of mascaras together can also help to achieve a more dramatic look.  Try using a volumizing mascara along with a lengthening mascara.  Also, if your lashes cannot hold a curl very well, have a lash lift service or curl your lashes and then select waterproof formulas.  They are a much drier formula than regular mascaras and will allow your lash to hold the curl better.

Fiber Lashes or Fiber Lash Mascaras – Different companies claim you will see up to a 500% increase in volume with your first coat.  You can purchase your own mascara and add the fibers to that after applying or you can purchase mascara that already has the fibers in it.

Prescription Growth Serums – We know of people who have used medicated growth serums, such as Latisse®, but due to the side effects we do not really recommend them.  Several people have claimed that they get wonky wild lashes that curl inward or are too curly in spots and they stopped using it, but lashes did not return to normal.  Mea has personally experienced the red eyes, hair growth in unintended areas around the eyes (which made the areas look darker), and the whites of her eyes started to develop brown spots.  Sylvia experienced red, itchy, puffy upper eyelids along with a dark brown line on the eyelid where the serum was applied and red irritated eyes along with not much lash growth at all.

Here is a copy of the Latisse® warning: “Do not use LATISSE® if you are allergic to one of its ingredients.  If you use/used prescription products for eye pressure problems, use LATISSE® under doctor care.  May cause brown darkening of the colored part of the eye which is likely permanent.  LATISSE® may cause eyelid skin darkening which may be reversible.  Only apply at base of upper lashes.  DO NOT APPLY to lower lid.  Hair may grow outside the treatment area.  If you have eye problems/surgery, consult your doctor.  Common side effects include itchy and red eyes.  If discontinued, lashes gradually return to the previous appearance.”

I Have No Lashes, Can I Still Get Eyelash Extensions?

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No, unfortunately, you must have eyelashes to apply the extensions to since the extensions do not touch the skin and are applied directly to the natural lash.  However, you do have options even without natural lashes.  Your main option is strip lashes, which are applied to your eyelids using non-permanent adhesive.  To help grow your natural lashes you can try serums and supplements.  Having full and long lashes are pretty, but if you have none other ways you can accentuate your eyes is with eyeliner and eyeshadows to make them stand out more, like a smokey glam look.

The History of Eyelashes

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Throughout most of history, long eyelashes have been a sign of youthfulness, attractiveness and considered fashionable.  Except maybe during the 1400s when women literally pulled out their eyelashes, because the church shunned any display of hair due to its suggestive or seductive disposition.  Despite that detour, lashes being thought of as a symbol of youth and beauty may have arisen from the fact that as we get older, our eyelashes naturally tend to get a bit shorter, sparser and thinner.  It is no secret that long lashes make us look younger, feel younger and sexier. Long lashes can change the shape of your face, soften curvatures, widen your eyes and make them appear larger.  Lashes can also change your appearance from soft and subtle to seductive and dramatic.  That is why thousands of products are sold to enhance the look of lashes, from mascara, to lash serums, to extensions.

In Ancient Rome, Pliny the Elder thought that they were a symbol not just of youth but also of chaste character, claiming that, “eyelashes fell out from excessive sex and so it was especially important for women to keep their eyelashes long to prove their chastity.” Pliny the Elder was wrong about all of that, but that did not stop Roman women from lining their eyes so that their lashes appeared more thick and lush.

Of course, the demand for youthful beautiful lashes was so strong that by the late 19th century, there were surgical treatments being offered for transplanting the hair from your head to your eyelids with an ordinary needle and strand of hair.  False eyelashes were patented in 1911 by Anna Taylor, even though they had been around in some form for decades before.  However, false eyelashes were not common until 1916 when a silent film director requested that the actress that was staring in his film have lashes “that brushed her cheeks, to make her eyes shine larger than life.” A local wig maker invented lashes for her by weaving human hair onto gauze and then gluing them to her eyelids with spirit gum (we do not recommend this).  Mascara was being marketed in 1917, by 1921 false lashes were popular among actresses and by the 1930s, false eyelashes were everywhere.  During the 1960s, lashes were all the rage with over 20 different types and over 20 million pairs being sold per year.  Although false lashes have come a long way since the 1960s, it has not been all that long that lash extensions have been able to offer us all the comfort and choices that we have today to customize how we enhance our eyes and our looks.

What Should Eyelash Extensions Feel Like? Are they Painful?

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Lash extensions should feel like your natural lashes, you should not be able to feel them at all. If the process of having them put on, or if they itch, irritate or are painful after application, your lash artist is applying them incorrectly.  The experience should be relaxing.  Eyelash extensions should feel like your own natural lashes. If the extensions are applied correctly they should not be painful, itchy, clumpy or heavy.

You should not really notice them except for the way they enhance your features.  When you first have them applied, however, you may feel them a bit since your lashes are fuller, but the sensation should subside almost immediately.  Some people have said that they can “see” them, but this will also subside.  At Sylvia’s spa, she uses high quality relatively fume-free adhesive, which should not burn or sting, unlike cheaper inferior products.  People with sensitive eyes or sinus problems may get some watering or slight stinging at the end, but it normally subsides quickly.

What’s the Most Challenging Part of Having Eyelash Extensions?

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Eyelash extensions can be an expensive investment; they require a bi-monthly to monthly commitment on the fill or re-lash appointments to keep them looking full and beautiful.  However, the payoff is so worth it, you wake up to naturally beautiful eyes and the need for makeup, if any, is minimal, thus cutting the time you need to get ready in the morning to nearly half.  We strongly encourage you to try them and see the difference they will make in your life. We can pretty much guarantee that you will be addicted and wonder how you ever lived without them!

For some women the expense is not the problem, it is the time commitment.  You need to set aside at least one hour every 2 weeks for the upkeep.  Again, the payoff is well worth it, but if you have limited time or work odd hours and it does not coincide with your lash artist’s business hours, it could pose a bit of a problem coordinating your re-lash appointments.

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